I’m often asked about the best places in the Azores, and while the village of Furnas has always held a special spot in my heart—it’s the home of the thermal pools and the famous Cozido—I have to admit something: I had always neglected its magnificent lake, Lagoa das Furnas.

Despite countless trips to the area, the lake remained a beautiful, untapped mystery. So, on a recent, mist-kissed Sunday morning, I decided it was time to change that. I laced up my boots and set out on the official PRC 6 route to complete the full circuit around the water.

Mist, Miradouros, and a Rainbow Revelation

My trek began not by the water’s edge, but right in the charming center of Furnas village. This allowed me to immediately tackle the scenic climb up to the Miradouro do Lombo dos Milhos.

The air was thick with mist, giving the climb an incredibly atmospheric, almost secretive feel. But the reward at the top was pure Azorean magic: the rain momentarily lifted just as I reached the viewpoint, and a spectacular rainbow arced across the entire valley, framing the town of Furnas in a breathtaking command view. It was a perfect, spontaneous moment—a reminder that nature rewards the dedicated explorer.

The Historic Lakeside Circuit

I then descended to the lake, where the trail turns into a beautiful cobblestone road that hugs the shore. This path feels like stepping back into the 18th century, a tangible link to the time when Furnas first flourished as a high-society resort town.

This circuit is surprisingly rich with hidden spots:

• Mata José do Canto: I passed this exquisite private park (€5 entry). It’s filled with rare botanicals and manicured pathways—a definite stop for my next visit!
• Chapel of Nossa Senhora das Vitórias: This stunning Neo-Gothic chapel stands proudly on the lakeside. It’s a beautifully somber piece of architecture and well worth a moment of quiet reflection. (Here is a video of the chapel: [Insert Video Link])
• Interpretation Center: I stopped at the Centro de Interpretação Ambiental das Furnas (CIAF), an educational hub all about the Furnas volcano. It was a great break, offering both free and paid exhibits. Keep an eye out for the fantastic, quirky wood carvings of animals and the one-of-a-kind S-curve wooden swing—it’s a perfect photo opportunity!

Wild Paths and Future Adventures

As I continued along the path, the vegetation shifted from formal gardens to wilder, more ancient landscapes. I walked through a serene bamboo forest and passed towering cedar trees, whose woody scent filled the damp air.

What truly surprised me were the adventure activities scattered along the shoreline:

1. The Treetop Ropes Course: I stumbled upon an incredible-looking ropes course set high in the canopy (€35). Talk about an adrenaline-fueled afternoon! This immediately shot to the top of my must-do list.
2. Grena Park: This is another large private park (€10 entry) that offers access to secluded waterfalls and stunning forest walks. I was amazed to find yet another hidden retreat along the lake.

The Heartbeat of the Volcano: Caldeiras and Steam

No trip to Lagoa das Furnas is complete without visiting the caldeiras—the famous steaming pits. While the fumaroles here are slightly less spectacular than the ones right in the town square, they are far more authentic to the Azorean experience. This is where local restaurants harness the raw heat of the dormant volcano to cook the signature Cozido das Furnas stew, buried underground for hours.

It’s also the perfect lakeside spot to grab a snack, rent a kayak, and just soak in the powerful geology of the island.

A Sunday Well Spent

In total, the full circuit took me about four hours, and it was four hours of pure, unadulterated exploration. Even after 18 months of living here, the Azores continues to reveal new layers of beauty and adventure.

Lagoa das Furnas proved to be so much more than just a lake—it’s a mosaic of natural wonders, historic architecture, and hidden adventure parks. Being out in nature and making these discoveries truly is the best way to keep the spirit young.

Have you explored the hidden trails around Furnas Lake? Let me know which of the private parks I should visit first on my next trip!

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Anthony “Tiger” Liu is an American expat and the operator of Golden Mermaid Villa and Longevity Habit retreat, where he shares a passion for the vibrant culture and nourishing lifestyle of São Miguel.