If you are looking to truly escape the beaten path, a journey to Agua Retorta is a must. Located on the southeastern tip of São Miguel, it is the furthest point from the Golden Mermaid Villa (about 53 km), but the dramatic scenery makes every kilometer of the drive worthwhile.

With a population of fewer than 500 people, Agua Retorta feels like a village frozen in time. The hike—officially designated as PRC 13 SMI—is a circular route that offers a perfect blend of pastoral charm and rugged Atlantic beauty.

The Hike at a Glance

• Starting Point: The village church at the top of the hill.

• Duration: Approximately 2 hours.

• Difficulty: Moderate (the climb back up is a workout!).

From Pastures to the Sea

The trail begins gently, winding through emerald-green cow fields and shaded, tree-lined paths. As you walk, the air shifts from the scent of wild ginger to the salty spray of the Atlantic.

The highlight of the trek is the descent. A steep path leads you down the cliffside to a secluded rocky beach, where the volcanic stones have been polished perfectly smooth by centuries of tides.

Hidden Wonders

Nestled against the cliffs, you’ll discover a narrow, towering waterfall that plunges toward the ocean. At its base, there is a natural pool that is simply irresistible for a refreshing dip during the warm summer months.

Pro Tip: Save your energy for the return! The climb back up the cliff is the most challenging part of the day. However, the trail rewards your effort by taking you right past the top of the waterfall, offering a unique “birds-eye” perspective of the cascade you just stood beneath.

A Village of Detail

Once you’re back at the top—thankfully greeted by a water station to quench your thirst—the path winds through the quiet village streets. Keep an eye on the houses; the traditional tile artwork depicting patron saints is distinctively different from the styles we see near the Villa, showcasing the unique local heritage of this “far away” gem.

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Anthony “Tiger” Liu is an American expat and the operator of Golden Mermaid Villa and Longevity Habit retreat, where he shares a passion for the vibrant culture and nourishing lifestyle of São Miguel.