Thinking of staying at Golden Mermaid Villa? One of the most breathtaking experiences is on the over side of Ponta Delgado is the hike down to the unique village of Rocha da Relva. If you want a taste of authentic Azorean life and stunning ocean views, the PR20 SMI trail is a must-do—but a short one!

Getting Started: Finding the True Trailhead

My own adventure started with a small misstep, so let my experience save you some time!

• The Lookout Deception: I initially thought the trail began at the famous Miradouro do Caminho Novo (the viewpoint with the large “Relva” sign). Wrong!

• The Correct Start: The official start for the PR20 SMI is about a 10-minute walk down the road at the Miradouro do Cascalho. Look for the proper PR20 SMI signage here to begin your descent.

The Hike: Steep Views and Hidden Coastline

The path itself is simple: you hike from the dramatic cliff top all the way down to the ocean-side fajã (a small coastal plain).

• The Challenge: Be prepared for a steep but well-maintained path! You’ll be dropping about 150 meters in altitude relatively quickly. Every step down is a step you’ll have to take back up, so pace yourself for the return journey.

• The Destination: The trail takes you to the charming cluster of white houses nestled at Rocha do Cascalho. The air gets saltier, and the views of the Atlantic are absolutely mesmerizing as you get closer to the bottom.

A Charming Secret: The Cat Colony

The bottom of the trail offers a wonderfully quirky reward that speaks to the gentle spirit of the island:

• Picnic Oasis: You’ll find a small, shaded picnic area complete with tables—the perfect spot for a break before the ascent.

• The Local Residents: This area is home to a friendly, thriving colony of local cats! They are clearly well-cared for. You’ll even find a donation can and a small supply of food nearby if you wish to help feed them. A truly unique photo opportunity!

A Note on Time (And Why You Should Plan Ahead)

Due to being short on time, I only completed half of the full PR20 SMI trail, which runs along the coast past Rocha do Cascalho.

My Suggestion for Golden Mermaid Villa Guests: While the full trail is wonderful, the descent and immediate ascent is a fantastic workout and offers the most dramatic views. Plan for at least 1.5 to 2 hours to fully enjoy the descent, explore the fajã, and make the climb back up comfortably.

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Anthony “Tiger” Liu is an American expat and the operator of Golden Mermaid Villa and Longevity Habit retreat, where he shares a passion for the vibrant culture and nourishing lifestyle of São Miguel.