Madeira Trip: A Dose of Hormesis and Happiness

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Forte de Sao Tiago

Travel, especially as we get older, isn’t just a treat—it’s a necessary boost for the mind and body. It jolts us out of routine, activating the brain with new challenges and offering a healthy, hormetic “stress” to the system. After 17 months immersed in São Miguel life (barring trips back to Florida), I’d almost forgotten the pure joy of discovery.

The solution? A five-day jaunt to Madeira, the other beautiful autonomous territory of Portugal and our closest island neighbor—a mere 400 km away. My friends, Fred and Linda, and I packed our bags for an unforgettable adventure. We wanted to know if the Azores what the better choice over the Madeiras.

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Inside the Funchal Cathedral

Day 1: Art, Architecture, and Deep-Sea Delicacy

Arriving in the afternoon, we immediately embraced Funchal’s history. We explored the Military Museum and the solemn beauty of the Funchal Cathedral before losing ourselves in the Rua de Santa Maria, an explosion of color and creativity with its famous painted doors.

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Mermaid Painted on the Door

Dinner brought a culinary adventure: the notorious, deep-water Black Scabbard fish. Despite its “supper ugly” appearance and formidable teeth, its flaky white flesh—served here with a magnificent banana and passion fruit sauce—was absolutely delicious. A perfect start to challenging the palate!

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First of many Black Scabbard fish meals

Day 2: Above the Clouds and Into the Levadas

Day two was dedicated to Madeira’s eastern grandeur. Our small van tour took us to Pico do Arieiro, the island’s highest drivable peak at a breathtaking 5,965 feet. Standing above the clouds was an awe-inspiring moment.

The true Madeira experience followed: a walk along a levada, the island’s unique irrigation channel system. This gentle exercise through lush nature is the essence of island well-being. We then visited the famous triangular, thatched-roof houses of Santana before ending the day at Ponta de São Lourenço, the dramatic, drier eastern tip of the island.

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Famous triangular, thatched-roof houses of Santana

Day 3: Botanical Bliss and Funchal Views

We dedicated our third day to the Palacio Monte Palace Madeira. The long, scenic cable car ride was the first thrill, delivering us to a palace grounds that have been transformed into one of the most stunning botanical gardens overlooking Funchal Bay.

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Panorama of the gardens

We wandered through the peaceful gardens, pausing at small art, sculpture, and mineral museums tucked away among the flora. It was here we sampled poncha, Madeira’s potent and famous local drink, before attending a wonderful piano concert inside the opera hall.

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Inside the Teatro Municipal Baltazar Dias

Day 4: Off-Roading, Ancient Forests, and Ocean Waves

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Panorama of Porto Moniz

The fourth day was pure rugged exploration via a 4WD tour of the North West. Highlights included:

  • Porto Moniz: Watching the Atlantic waves crash spectacularly into the natural aquarium-like pools below a small fortress.
  • Paul da Serra: We bounced through the clouds on our off-roading journey across this high plateau.
  • Laurissilva Forest: Exploring this UNESCO World Heritage site, home to ancient trees and an incomparable feeling of timelessness.
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Old Native Tree of Life

The day ended with a refreshing swim in the Atlantic at Seixal, where I fully embraced the power of the ocean, crashing into a memorable big wave. Every day was perfect, marked by glorious sunshine and only the lightest sprinkle of rain.

 

Day 5: The Antifragile End

Our final day tested our travel resilience. An initial taxi mishap caused a minor delay, but the real test came at the airport: a devastating six-hour flight delay.

Instead of stressing, we embraced the opportunity to explore. We left the airport, hailed another taxi, and headed to the nearby village of Santa Cruz for a relaxing pizza lunch. It was there we finally discovered the famous braided bread we’d seen in a video!

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Having a pizza next to the Atlantic

After an unexpectedly long but ultimately flexible day, we finally returned to the cooler, windier, and often rainier embrace of São Miguel. Madeira was a rejuvenating break—a powerful reminder that changing the environment truly does the body, and the spirit, good.  Madeira was great, but Sao Miguel is the place we call home! Back to the morning routine tomorrow.

 

Anthony “Tiger” Liu is an American expat and the operator of Golden Mermaid Villa and Longevity Habit retreat, where he shares a passion for the vibrant culture and nourishing lifestyle of São Miguel.

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