There is a quiet magic that settles over São Miguel during the Christmas season. Beyond the twinkling lights and festive markets, there is one tradition that truly captures the heart of the island: the Nativity Scene (Presépios).

I have discovered that during December, these displays—known locally as Lapinhas—appear everywhere. They are in our grandest churches, our community centers, and tucked into the windows of private homes across the entire island. In fact, I don’t have to go far for inspiration; I just have to look out the front door to see the beautiful scene that wraps around the church right next to the Golden Mermaid Villa.

A Global Tradition with Humble Roots

The tradition of the nativity scene, or crèche, began far from our shores. It was St. Francis of Assisi who created the first live reenactment in 1223 in Greccio, Italy. Using only hay, an ox, and a donkey, he sought to help people visualize the humble birth of Jesus.

By the 14th century, these living models evolved into static church displays. Over the centuries, they transformed into the elaborate, artistic decorations we recognize today—becoming a beloved symbol of Christmas across the globe.

The Unique Spirit of the Azorean Lapinha

On São Miguel, the Lapinha has a flavor all its own. Introduced by Franciscan friars in the 16th century, the art form flourished in the 17th century when local nuns began crafting intricate scenes using shells, dried flowers, and clay figures.

Today, these scenes are more than just a religious story; they are a tribute to Azorean life. As you explore the island, you will notice how locals blend biblical narratives with our unique landscape:

• In Furnas: You might see the manger set against a backdrop of volcanic steam and lush greenery.

• In Ribeira Grande: Look for “animated” scenes that depict local traditions like whaling or the Romeiros (pilgrims).

These displays are a beautiful intersection of deep faith and community pride.

A Journey Around the Island

I have spent the last two weeks driving through the winding coastal roads and mountain passes of São Miguel, capturing photos of the diverse nativity scenes found in almost every igreja (church). Each village puts its own soul into its display, making a “Nativity Tour” one of the best ways to experience the authentic culture of the Azores in winter. My favorite Nativity Scene are the ones in Povoacao with feature faceless cloth mannequins thought the entire city.

If you are staying with us this season, I highly recommend taking a stroll to the church next door to see our local masterpiece before heading out to discover the others hidden across the island.

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Anthony “Tiger” Liu is an American expat and the operator of Golden Mermaid Villa and Longevity Habit retreat, where he shares a passion for the vibrant culture and nourishing lifestyle of São Miguel.