São Miguel is an island of endless discoveries, and one of its best-kept secrets lies along the coast near the charming town of Moinhos. I recently hiked part of the Ladeira da Velha Municipal Trail (TM04), an adventure that led me to an abandoned thermal spa, a magnificent wooden tower, and stunning coastal views—all without another person in sight!
Coastal Vistas and the Mysterious Tower
I started my trek at the Moinhos parking lot, walking through the village before heading up the trail toward the coast. The first part of the hike is a refreshing climb that rewards you with an incredible sight: the first miradouro (viewpoint) offers a panoramic view of the entire Moinhos Beach.
Further along, the trail leads to a T-intersection. Be sure to follow the sign to the Miradouro do Furado to find one of the most unique structures on the island: a magnificent wooden three-story tower.
I had never seen anything like it and had to climb to the top. From this height, you get a perfect view of an amazing natural wonder: a massive stone archway where the ocean has cut a sea cave right through the cliff face. It’s an unforgettable sight, as the video perfectly captures.
The Descent to Hidden History
The trail eventually meets the main road for a stretch, leading to the entrance of Part 2, which begins the dramatic descent down the cliff face.
Fortunately, the path is well-maintained, featuring hundreds of wood-reinforced steps built into the hillside. As you navigate the steep trail, you can clearly hear the ocean roar getting louder below you. Along the way, I spotted tiny, wild-looking strawberry plants—perhaps the local Fragaria Vesca (wild strawberry) or Potentilla Indica (mock strawberry).
After over an hour of hiking, the reward appears: the fascinating ruins of the Ladeira da Velha Thermal Spa.
The Forgotten Spa and a Refreshing Dip
The central building is a skeleton of its former self, with seven or eight rooms, no roof, and completely overgrown with vines and vegetation—a perfect image of a beautiful ruin. This was once a thriving spot, as evidenced by a magnificent illustrated photo from 1932 that preserved the memory of the houses used by spa guests. The Ladeira da Velha thermal spring was once renowned in the 19th and early 20th centuries for its medicinal properties, particularly for treating ailments like rheumatism, leprosy, and various skin diseases.
Just five minutes further down the path, you find the truly special spot: the abandoned Thermal Pool.
How could I not go in? Yes, the bottom was covered with a layer of algae and the top with decaying leaves, but the water itself looked fairly clean. I was prepared with a towel, swim trunks, and shower slippers, and the plunge was worth it!
The water temperature was perfectly neutral—neither hot nor cold—but I discovered the small stream feeding the pool was about warmer right where it seeped through a crack in the stone. It was a unique and wonderfully peaceful experience.
Experience the Azores’ Hidden Gems
This hike is a perfect example of what makes São Miguel so special. I spent the entire afternoon exploring historical ruins and natural beauty, and I had the whole place to myself. The opportunity for unhurried, independent exploration is one of the island’s greatest luxuries.
At Golden Mermaid Villa, we encourage our guests to discover these hidden gems. It’s true what they say: exploration keeps an old heart young!
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Anthony “Tiger” Liu is an American expat and the operator of Golden Mermaid Villa and Longevity Habit retreat, where he shares a passion for the vibrant culture and nourishing lifestyle of São Miguel.
