Sometimes on São Miguel, the best plans are the ones that fall through.
I recently spotted a flyer for a community pig roast hosted by the local fire department. Hungry and curious, I headed to the large fire department complex in Ribeira Grande. When I arrived, the scene was striking: all the fire trucks were polished and displayed outside, but the grounds were silent. There wasn’t a soul in sight.
Just as I started to wonder if I had the wrong day, I heard the faint, rhythmic sound of brass and drums in the distance. I followed the music into the heart of town and stumbled upon something much better than a barbecue: a full Parade de Charangas Ribeira Grande or fire department band parade.
Who are the Bombeiros?
In Portugal, firefighters are known as Bombeiros. The history of these heroes on São Miguel dates back to the late 1870s with the founding of the volunteer brigade in Ponta Delgada. What started as a humble group of citizens protecting their neighbors has grown into a vital pillar of island life.
Today, the Bombeiros handle much more than fires—they are the island’s primary ambulance and rescue service. While there are professional units, the culture of volunteerism remains the heartbeat of the organization.
The “Charangas”: A Musical Tradition
The parade I discovered featured the Charangas dos Bombeiros. These are specialized drum and bugle marching bands tied to the fire departments. There are four main bands on the island:
-
Ponta Delgada
-
Ribeira Grande
-
Vila Franca do Campo
-
Nordeste
These bands are a staple of Azorean life. You’ll see them at religious festivals, the Festas do Espírito Santo, and even at the lighting of the Christmas displays. Seeing them all together, marching in their crisp uniforms, was a powerful reminder of the community spirit that thrives here in the middle of the Atlantic.
—
Anthony “Tiger” Liu is an American expat and the operator of Golden Mermaid Villa and Longevity Habit retreat, where he shares a passion for the vibrant culture and nourishing lifestyle of São Miguel.
